In the ever-evolving world of music and fashion, few artists have managed to consistently challenge and redefine the boundaries of gender norms and aesthetics as successfully as Pink. The multi-hyphenate superstar, known for her powerhouse vocals, fearless performances, and unabashed individuality, has long been a beacon of androgynous-femme style. This was particularly evident at the MTV VMA Video Vanguard Award, where Pink, accompanied by her daughter Willow and husband Carey Hart, turned heads on the red carpet in three-piece suits. Later that night, Pink addressed her and her daughter’s androgyny, poignantly stating, “we don’t change; we help other people to change so that they can see more kinds of beauty.” This statement encapsulates Pink’s ethos and her influence on both the music and fashion industries.
One of the key figures behind Pink’s gender-defining look is her longtime makeup artist, Kathy Jeung. With a client list that includes Gwen Stefani, Britney Spears, Rita Ora, Dita Von Teese, and even George Michael, Jeung is no stranger to the transformative power of makeup. In an exclusive interview with Billboard, Jeung shared insights into her creative process and the techniques she employs to bring Pink’s vision to life.
The Genesis of a Collaboration
Jeung and Pink’s professional relationship began in the mid-2000s, a period that saw Pink’s career skyrocketing. “We’ve known each other for quite a long time,” Jeung reminisced. “It’s really nice to see how her career has evolved. I met her when she was 19 or 20 years old, and that speech she gave…it actually brought me to tears.” The bond they share is not just professional but deeply personal, rooted in mutual respect and a shared understanding of their craft.
Jeung’s approach to Pink’s makeup is collaborative. She often comes prepared with several ideas, but ultimately, it is Pink’s comfort and confidence that guide the final decision. For the VMA red carpet, Jeung presented two concepts: one inspired by Helmut Newton, featuring a bold red lip with understated eyes, and another inspired by Peter Lindbergh, emphasizing an androgynous smoky eye. Pink opted for the latter for the red carpet, reserving the dramatic red lip for her performance.
The Peter Lindbergh Smoky Eye Look
To achieve the Peter Lindbergh-inspired look, Jeung began by prepping Pink’s skin with Urban Decay’s Optical Illusion Complexion Primer. This was followed by the Naked Skin Highlighting Fluid in Fireball under the eyes for brightening and the Naked Skin Concealer on problem areas. Jeung then mixed Giorgio Armani Luminous Skin Foundation with Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer, applying it with the UD Pro Large Tapered Foundation Brush. The Urban Decay Naked Flushed Palette was used to highlight, bronze, and add a hint of blush to the cheeks.
For the eyes, Jeung turned to Urban Decay’s classic Naked3 palette. She applied the shade “Shade3” over the eyelid, “Mooner” in the crease, and “Factory” brushed upward from the center of the lid. The top and bottom lashlines were lined with the 24/7 Glide on Eye Pencil in Underground, and the look was finished with Troublemaker mascara on both the upper and lower lashes. “Truly androgynous would be no-makeup makeup, or no makeup at all,” Jeung explained. “But I wanted that play on the femme androgynous thing, so a smoky eye pulls that off, and then having the nude mouth…it’s not too glossy, but has a little shine. It looks beige, but not too flat.”
The Helmut Lang Red Lip Look
For Pink’s performance, Jeung introduced the Helmut Lang-inspired red lip. She began by lining Pink’s lips with Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil in 714, followed by VICE lipstick in the same shade. “I wanted something really strong and bold, with good saturation of color, and that would pop and stay on as well,” Jeung said. To add a touch of sparkle and ensure the lipstick stayed in place, Jeung used a product called Special Effects, a gold gloss that acts as a waterproofing seal over the lipstick, giving the lips a fuller appearance. The look was set with UD’s Setting Spray in De-Slick, which Jeung hailed as one of her hero products of the night. “When it came time to do a quick touch-up, I didn’t have to do anything,” Jeung recalled. “I started patting her and was like, ‘Oh, there’s nothing really to pat.’ So those two products really helped me through.”
Pink’s Influence on Gender Norms
Pink’s commitment to challenging gender norms extends beyond her personal style. Through her music, public appearances, and personal life, she has consistently advocated for a broader understanding of beauty and identity. Her speech at the VMAs, where she spoke about her daughter’s struggles with androgyny and how they embrace their unique beauty, resonated deeply with audiences. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of self-acceptance and the impact of representation.
The Power of Makeup
Makeup, as Jeung demonstrates, is not just about enhancing physical features but about expressing identity and challenging societal norms. For Pink, makeup is a tool that allows her to navigate the fluid spectrum of gender presentation. Whether it’s a bold red lip or a smoky eye, each look is a statement of individuality and defiance against conventional beauty standards.
Jeung’s work with Pink is a testament to the transformative power of makeup. It’s about more than just the products used; it’s about the creativity, intention, and collaboration that goes into each look. “We’re not just putting makeup on,” Jeung explained. “We’re creating a story, a narrative that aligns with who she is and what she stands for.”
Behind the Scenes: Kathy Jeung’s Approach
Kathy Jeung’s approach to makeup artistry is deeply rooted in her understanding of her clients’ personalities and the messages they wish to convey. Her work with Pink is a perfect example of this philosophy. Each look is meticulously crafted to reflect Pink’s bold, unapologetic persona while also pushing the boundaries of traditional gender norms.
Jeung’s toolkit is a blend of high-end products and innovative techniques. She often mixes different foundations and highlighters to achieve the perfect skin tone and texture. Her use of bold colors and dramatic effects is balanced with a keen sense of proportion and harmony, ensuring that each element of the look complements the whole.
The Role of Makeup in Identity and Expression
Makeup has long been a tool for self-expression and identity. For many, it is a way to explore different facets of their personality and to challenge societal expectations. Pink’s androgynous-femme look is a powerful example of this. Through her makeup and styling choices, she navigates the fluid spectrum of gender presentation, challenging the binary notions of male and female beauty.
Jeung’s work with Pink highlights the importance of understanding the cultural and personal significance of makeup. It’s not just about following trends or achieving a certain aesthetic; it’s about creating a look that is deeply personal and reflective of one’s identity.
Pink’s Impact on the Industry
Pink’s influence on the music and fashion industries is undeniable. Her fearless approach to style and her willingness to challenge gender norms have made her a role model for many. She has shown that beauty and identity are not confined to rigid categories but are fluid and multifaceted.
Her collaboration with Jeung is a testament to the power of creativity and collaboration in the world of makeup artistry. Together, they have created iconic looks that have redefined beauty standards and inspired countless others to embrace their unique identities.
Conclusion: Embracing Fluidity and Individuality
The art of androgynous-femme, as exemplified by Pink and brought to life by Kathy Jeung, is a celebration of individuality and fluidity. It’s about challenging the traditional boundaries of gender and beauty and embracing a broader, more inclusive understanding of identity. Pink’s stunning transformation at the MTV VMAs is not just a fashion statement; it’s a powerful message of self-acceptance and the importance of representation.
In a world that often seeks to categorize and define, Pink and Jeung remind us of the beauty of fluidity and the power of self-expression. Through their collaboration, they continue to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of makeup and fashion, inspiring others to embrace their unique identities and to see the beauty in diversity.
